Louis Vuitton took baroque and botanical cues from Italy’s Isola Bella for Cruise 2024 collection

STRESA, Italy — Incessant rain did not dampen Nicolas Ghesquiere’s ambitions for Louis Vuitton’s 2024 Cruise collection, which was presented to an A-list crowd including Oprah Winfrey, Cate Blanchett, Jennifer Connolly and Emma Stone on Wednesday.

Originally envisioned before a golden sunset in the light of the magnificent fountain of the aptly named Isola Bella on Lago Maggiore in northern Italy, the show was instead moved to the imposing public rooms of the Borromeo Palace, construction of which began in the 17th century and only 400 were completed . years later, after World War II. The palace, located near the Swiss border, remains the summer residence of the Borromeo family.

Destination cruise shows are some of the most ambitious events in the fashion world, taking the fashion crowd to some of the most scenic locations on the planet. The internet continues to buzz about Ghesquire’s Cruise 2018 in Kyoto and the 2017 Cruise show in Rio de Janiero.

The Isola Bella show was no less enterprising, imagined among the botanical gardens of the island. Over the past decade, the creative force behind Louis Vuitton has combined baroque references, easily identified in the oil paintings that hang in the palace, with modern materials such as neoprene and sporty silhouettes that put boxers over quilted biker shorts.

Ghesquiere’s creations could easily emerge from the depths of the lake, with neoprene straps creating wings on cropped tops and movement in flowing skirts, befitting of freshwater mermaids. and tapestry details on the sleeve of the jacket.

A series of frothy dresses with sheer panels and stiff, wire-trimmed satin embellishments closed the show in peach, sage, pink and yellow. The princess dresses were finished off with mid-calf boots adorned with straps.

Ghesquiere called the collection a kind of “archaeology of the future,” set on an island that “attracts more dreamlike reflections.”

“What I loved was the concept of the modern princess who doesn’t need a prince anymore,” said Italian actress Sabrina Impacciatore, whose career was boosted by playing hotel manager Valentina in the second season of “White Lotus.”

“That’s the spirit I saw in every dress and I loved it. It’s about a strong girl, a really strong girl who doesn’t give up her femininity,” said Impacciatore as she tried on a new alter ego in a full leather suit.

As hundreds of invited guests watched the show at the palace, the Parisian fashion house took an afternoon break to walk through the rain to keep the images as intended: elaborate feathered or gilded headdresses next to a baroque fountain, silhouettes mixed with Renaissance accordion necklines. with shorts or miniskirts, sneakers or boots.

Winfrey is producing the remake of “The Color Purple,” set to be released in December nearly four decades after the original 1985 film, for which she received an Oscar nomination for best supporting actress. He called the 2023 film “a revival of joy.”

“I think it offers a sense of hope and empowerment for women,” she said before the show. “I hope women will get together with their friends, sisters and family and come and watch. It will be a joy.”

When asked about reports that California Gov. Gavin Newsome has floated his name as a possible candidate to replace Sen. Dianne Feinstein should she step down, Winfrey indicated she doesn’t see politics in her future.

“Not on my plate,” he said. – This is not me. Flattering. It’s an honor for me.”